GUATMELA'S GARIFUNA FACE CHALLENGES TO CULTURE

UNCLAS GUATEMALA 000227 STATE FOR WHA/CEN (RVALERIN),WHA/PDA (MLEE) E.O. 12958: N/A TAGS: PREL ECON PHUM KPAO GT SUBJECT: GUATMELA'S GARIFUNA FACE CHALLENGES TO CULTURE AND IDENTITY ¶1. SUMMARY. From February 18-20, CAO traveled to Livingston and Puerto Barrios on Guatemala's Caribbean coast in an effort to improve the Embassy's cultural and educational links with the Afro-Caribbean Garifuna community. Livingston, which can only be reached by boat, is an isolated community with an economy based almost entirely on fishing, tourism, and remittances. Although Guatemala's Garifuna face serious challenges, in particular a lack of political leadership, endemic racism, and migration, they have a strong desire to preserve their culture and community. Embassy Guatemala PAS will continue to engage the Garifuna through English language teaching and cultural and educational exchanges. END COMMENT. ¶2. From February 18-20, CAO traveled to Livingston and Puerto Barrios on Guatemala's small Caribbean coast for a series of cultural activities and school visits aimed at increasing cultural and educational contacts with the Garifuna (estimated pop. 7,000),an Afro-Caribbean ethnic group found throughout the Central American Caribbean. CAO was accompanied on his visit a U.S. Fulbright student who will be working in Livingston in the second half of ¶2009. ¶3. Livingston (pop. 24,000) is located at the mouth of the Rio Dulce River in the department of Izabal. No roads connect to Livingston and locals and visitors alike must travel there by boat from Rio Dulce or from Puerto Barrios, the departmental seat. Livingston's isolation has helped preserve the Garifuna culture, which dates back at least 200 years, but also results in a lack of employment and educational opportunities. The economy is dependent on fishing, tourism, and remittances, and migration (primarily to the United States) is high. Although Livingston is the heart of Garifuna culture in Guatemala, the Garifuna only make up a small minority of the population, which is dominated by Kekchi Maya and Ladino (mestizo) Guatemalans. In addition to other small ethnic groups, there is a relatively large community of expatriates, including approximately 70 U.S. citizens. ¶4. CAO visited with 25 representatives of the Garifuna spiritual community at the Villa Caribe hotel, one of approximately 20 hotels in Livingston that caters to a growing number of visitors (a mix of independent travelers, package tourists, and passengers arriving from �A;the new cruise ship terminal near Puerto Barrios). Garifuna culture is a highly spiritual mix of Catholic and traditional beliefs. There are a number of very basic temples scattered throughout Livingston and the ceremonies are conducted in Garifuna, an Arawak-based language with a variety of Caribbean, European, and African influences. ¶5. The participants told CAO that Guatemala's Garifuna community faced endemic racism, particularly outside of Livingston and Puerto Barrios. The Garifuna stated that they found it insulting that African was not an ethnicity listed on the national census. On the streets in Guatemala City and elsewhere they are often on the receiving end of insults about their skin color. (NOTE: Approximately 10 years ago several Garifuna students on scholarship in Quetzaltenango were nearly lynched by an angry crowd. END NOTE.) They complained that the Guatemalan government pays little attention to Livingston except during campaign season, and that when officials do come they often make promises that they have no intention of fulfilling. Several Garifuna lamented the fact that due in part to an extremely fractured and disorganized Qdue in part to an extremely fractured and disorganized political culture they don't even have much of a say in local politics (the mayor and vice-mayor are both Kekchi and one Garifuna reported that there has never been an elected Garifuna mayor). Racial divisions in Livingston are immediately obvious; neighborhoods of the city are essentially segregated into black and Ladino/Kekchi areas. ¶6. The community leaders also talked about the economic situation in Livingston. Costs of basic foods and supplies are high due to the fact that they must be transported by boat. Although a road is reportedly creeping closer to Livingston, virtually all of the Garifuna were against it as it would further dilute the Garifuna culture. Young people have few employment opportunities, while at the same time their lifestyles are supported through remittances from the United States. Several Garifuna noted that the U.S. recession was negatively affecting remittances, putting further stress on young Garifuna who have few options but to leave Livingston. ¶7. The next day CAO met with Luba Awanselula, a community group dedicated to the preservation of Garifuna culture, with a particular emphasis on food and the arts. CAO spoke to the group about educational and cultural opportunities supported by the Embassy. There is a large number of Garifuna cultural institutions in Livingston and it soon became apparent that they compete with each other for the limited attention of the Guatemalan government, domestic and international NGO's, and tourists. Garifuna culture is mostly intangible, but there is an excellent small community museum near the dock that tells the story of the Garifuna and the multi- ethnic makeup of Livingston. ¶8. The fractured nature of Garifuna organizations makes it difficult to determine who, if anyone, represents the larger community. One particularly outspoken Garifuna who represented himself as a spiritual leader turned out to be a scam artist who brazenly asked the CAO for money. As several Garifuna acknowledge, the lack of a singular identity and clear leaders makes it hard for government and non-governmental organizations to find reliable partners for assistance and development programs, although UNESCO is currently planning a program there. ¶9. There are three public schools in Livingston - one primary school each for boys and girls and a combined secondary school with approximately 300 students. CAO visited with half of the secondary school students to talk about Black History Month in the United States and to encourage the students to study English. The school, which is run primarily by Garifuna, has one self-taught English teacher. Many students drop out of school at a young age and loiter in the streets (alcoholism, youth pregnancy, and STDs are significant problems in Livingston). Like many rural schools, facilities are limited and the emphasis is on basic skills. Graduates of secondary school have no options for further study unless they leave Livingston, and any young Garifuna with university degrees who return have few employment options. ¶10. Overall the Garifuna in Livingston were very pro- United States, referring to President Obama as "our president" because of his African origins. Many Garifuna were very interested in possible changes in U.S. immigration policy, reflecting the general desire towards migration. ¶11. Returning from Livingston, CAO stopped in Puerto Barrios (pop. 41,000) to visit a women's organization and a private school. Although Puerto Barrios, formerly the main port in Guatemala for the United Fruit Company, is considered to be a seedy port town that has seen better days, CAO was impressed by the enthusiasm and optimism of the civic and educational leaders. CAO spoke with students from two private schools and the students asked an impressive number of questions about U.S. foreign policy and opportunities to study and travel in the United States. ¶12. COMMENT. The Garifuna are a small but vibrant minority group that is closer in many ways to the United States than to the Guatemalan government. Still, because of its isolation and lack of central identity, establishing stronger links to the Garifuna and encouraging greater Garifuna participation in Embassy- sponsored programs will take concerted effort. Building on this visit, Embassy Guatemala PAS plans to: (1) work with English language teachers in Puerto Barrios and Livingston, including by ensuring that they participate in English language teaching conferences and by Qin English language teaching conferences and by requesting an English language specialist for the region; (2) continue to work to identify future Garifuna leaders and include them in exchange programs or English-language study opportunities; and (3) plan follow-up visits taking advantage of new contacts and the presence of a visiting U.S. Fulbright student. END COMMENT. MCFARLAND