Identifier
Created
Classification
Origin
09DARESSALAAM333
2009-05-21 12:54:00
UNCLASSIFIED
Embassy Dar Es Salaam
Cable title:  

TANZANIA TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY STRUGGLING TO

Tags:  EAID ECON ETRD PREL TZ 
pdf how-to read a cable
VZCZCXRO0004
RR RUEHBZ RUEHDU RUEHJO RUEHMR RUEHRN
DE RUEHDR #0333/01 1411254
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
R 211254Z MAY 09
FM AMEMBASSY DAR ES SALAAM
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC 8523
INFO RUCNSAD/SOUTHERN AF DEVELOPMENT COMMUNITY COLLECTIVE
RUEHJB/AMEMBASSY BUJUMBURA 2883
RUEHKM/AMEMBASSY KAMPALA 3411
RUEHLGB/AMEMBASSY KIGALI 1339
RUEHNR/AMEMBASSY NAIROBI 1271
RUEHBJ/AMEMBASSY BEIJING 0356
RUEHDS/USMISSION USAU ADDIS ABABA
RUCPDOC/DEPT OF COMMERCE WASHDC
UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 03 DAR ES SALAAM 000333 

SIPDIS

DEPARTMENT FOR AF/E JLIDDLE; INR/RAA FOR FEHRENREICH; AF/EPS
STATE PASS USAID/EA, USTDA, USTR, USITC

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: EAID ECON ETRD PREL TZ
SUBJECT: TANZANIA TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY STRUGGLING TO
COMPETE

REF: A) 2004 Dar es Salaam 407 B) 2006 Dar es Salaam 1638; C) Dar es
Salaam 164 D)Dar es Salaam 154

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 03 DAR ES SALAAM 000333

SIPDIS

DEPARTMENT FOR AF/E JLIDDLE; INR/RAA FOR FEHRENREICH; AF/EPS
STATE PASS USAID/EA, USTDA, USTR, USITC

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: EAID ECON ETRD PREL TZ
SUBJECT: TANZANIA TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY STRUGGLING TO
COMPETE

REF: A) 2004 Dar es Salaam 407 B) 2006 Dar es Salaam 1638; C) Dar es
Salaam 164 D)Dar es Salaam 154


1. Summary and Comment. Tanzania's once successful textile and
apparel industry is floundering, unable to capitalize on advantages
such as abundant supply of raw materials and preferential trading
agreements, including AGOA. Recent interviews with various sector
stakeholders in Tanzania revealed that internal challenges deter
investment and hinder competitiveness. Development challenges in
infrastructure, human resources, and access to finance prevent
Tanzanian mills from being cost and quality competitive with other
producers around the world. Additionally, the mutually reinforcing
problems of a capital intensive textiles sector and a small garment
sector prevent the industry from expanding to reach economies of
scale. Although the GOT recognizes the obstacles to the sector's
growth, it has taken few measures to address them. End Summary and
Comment.

Note: This cable is based in part on interviews conducted during a
visit by officials from the U.S. International Trade Commission
(ITC) to review African textile and apparel industries. The ITC
report is available at
http://www.usitc.gov/publications/332/pub4078 .pdf.

Context
--------------

2. At its peak in the late 1970s, Tanzania's textile industry was
the largest manufacturing sector in the country in terms of
employment and second largest by gross value of production. It
employed about 25 percent of the manufacturing labor force and
contributed 25 percent of the manufacturing sector GDP. Although
the industry appeared successful, it was being kept alive only
through government protection and subsidies. In the mid-1990s, with
the shift toward economic liberalization, the industry collapsed and
all but two mills went out of business.


3. Over the course of a decade, the textiles industry grew slowly
and in 2004 had 12 significant textile producers employing 6,000
workers(See ref A). The sector was dealt another blow in 2005,
however, when the expiration of the Multi-Fiber Agreement exposed
it, along with all of Africa's textile producers, to competition
from the strong and well-established Asian producers - especially
China, Bangladesh and Cambodia. As a result, one major producer
closed its doors that year and another was forced to cease
operations for several months and produce far below capacity upon
reopening (See ref B). The volume of textiles produced in Tanzania
dropped 14 percent from 2004 to 2005. Since 2005, the industry has

seen increased investment and today, 20 local companies employ about
13,000 workers (almost half of which are employed by one company, A
to Z, which produces anti-malaria bednets). The majority of
companies focus on the local market, producing mainly traditional
clothing and bedsheets. Only half a dozen Tanzanian mills produce
for export, and only two are vertically integrated operations.

Despite Advantages, Sector Struggling
--------------

4. Tanzania produces sufficient high-quality cotton to support local
textile manufacture. Tanzania's second largest export crop, cotton
contributes some USD90 million to export earnings annually and
provides employment to about half a million rural households (though
see ref C for troubles in the sector). In addition to Tanzania's
domestic market of 40 million people, Tanzania's international
market access is bolstered by preferential trading agreements
benefiting the sector. Under the Everything But Arms agreement
(EBA),Tanzania enjoys duty and quota-free access to the EU. Under
the U.S. African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA),Tanzania is one
of a small group of countries eligible for all benefits in the
apparel and textiles sector: it is one of only 5 eligible for ethnic
printed fabric provisions. [Note: Regional trade in textiles is
minimal because of East African Community tariffs that protect local
producers. End note.]


5. Despite these advantages, the Tanzanian textile and apparel
sector is floundering. According to Dr. Joe Kabissa, Director
General of the Tanzania Cotton Board, 80 percent of the country's
cotton is exported raw - mostly to China, Bangladesh and other Asian
nations. Additionally, Tanzania registers a large trade deficit in
textiles and apparel. In 2007, USD 131 million in imports of
textile and apparel inputs far outpaced the USD 20 million in
exports. Tanzania has been unable to take advantage of trade
preferences such as AGOA. In 2007, U.S. imports of Tanzanian woven

DAR ES SAL 00000333 002 OF 003


and knit apparel were worth USD 2.8 million, compared to USD 1.3
billion from Sub-Saharan Africa as a whole. Nearly all U.S. imports
came from a single company, Sunflag.

Development Challenges
--------------

6. Access to finance - Representatives from the Ministry of
Industry, Trade and Marketing indentified local access to finance as
the most important hindrance to the sector. Loans are difficult to
come by - particularly on the scale required to start up a capital
intensive operation like a textile mill which generally requires an
initial investment of more than USD100 million - and interest rates
are high at about 15 percent. Many mill and factory owners brought
financing from family-owned businesses in countries like India and
Pakistan rather than raising it domestically. Many of the mills in
Tanzania use outdated equipment, being unable to purchase newer and
more efficient machines. A 2007 report by the Tanzania Gatsby Trust
notes that the majority of machines in Tanzanian factories were 30
or more years old and poorly maintained. Moreover, most factories
suffer from a shortage of spares and opt to run down old equipment
rather than reinvesting and upgrading it. For example, less than 7
percent of Tanzania's spinning machinery has been updated in the
past 10 years.


7. Infrastructure - Every company interviewed in connection with the
ITC visit commented on the challenges posed by Tanzania's weak
infrastructure. Most cited congestion and delays at the port of Dar
es Salaam as their primary concern, noting that it regularly
prevented them from receiving and shipping goods on time (See ref
D). When asked about alternatives to sea routes, they complained
that inadequate roads and railways provided them with a lack of
other options. New Tabora Textiles Managing Director Bharat Patel
noted a 35 day minimum transport time from factory to customer -
including 6 days to move goods 600 miles by road from factory to
port.


8. Another major infrastructure challenge is the lack of reliable
power and water. According to several of the mill workers
interviewed, a cut in power means a broken thread, making it
necessary for a worker to completely stop a machine to repair the
thread or even to start all over again. A water shortage at a
textiles plant doing bleaching and dying means delayed production of
all products. Unreliable electricity and water supplies also force
manufacturers to invest in expensive generation equipment.


9. Human resources - In addition to financial and physical
resources, most of the companies interviewed complained about
challenges related to human resources. As there are no formal
training programs in Tanzania for textiles and apparel production,
mills must fully train all workers. A to Z, an Arusha-based company
which manufactures mostly mosquito nets and employs some 6,000
people, spends 6 to 9 months training workers in stitching but has
had problems with trained workers leaving to work elsewhere. Most
of the companies interviewed complained of low labor productivity in
Tanzania - especially compared to that in Asian countries.


10. Low levels of investment and the resultant outdated
technologies, problems with power and water, and difficulties
finding skilled labor all inhibit production of high quality goods.
As a result, Tanzanian textiles are less competitive in export
markets, particularly the U.S. and Europe. The Director for
Industrial Development at the Ministry of Industry, Trade and
Marketing, the Deputy General Manager of the Urafiki Textile Mill,
and the President of the Tanzanian Chamber of Commerce all cited
poor quality as a barrier to entry into the American and European
markets. Even if Tanzanian factories wanted to export bed sheets
and niche products made of traditional fabrics to such markets,
their current products do not meet Western standards.

Economies of Scale; A Chicken and Egg Problem
--------------

11. Textile production is capital intensive, requiring large output
volume to bring down unit cost to competitive levels, and the
existing garment industry in Tanzania is too small and fragmented to
justify the large-scale investment required to build the textiles
sector. Simultaneously, lack of an adequate domestic supply of
textiles prevents the growth of the garment industry. This "chicken
and egg" problem deters investment on both sides. As most
stakeholders agree, vertical integration of the industry is
important in order to make use of locally available cotton and to
benefit from adding value locally rather than exporting raw

DAR ES SAL 00000333 003 OF 003


materials only to re-import finished products. However, the
challenges noted above are clear disincentives for the significant
investment required to build a vertically integrated operation.

GOT Support Minimal
--------------

12. The GOT is aware that the lack of value addition to Tanzanian
raw materials deprives the economy of revenue. The GOT attempted to
promote processing and the manufacturing of products from locally
available raw materials. One important step toward this goal was
the 2002 establishment of Export Processing Zones (EPZs). Licensed
EPZ projects are entitled to a number of incentives including an
export credit guarantee scheme, remission of customs duty, VAT, and
other taxes on certain items, inspection facilitation, and access to
reliable services (such as water and power) within the EPZs, among
other things. By definition, however, EPZs only focus on
enterprises producing for export and therefore do not assist the
majority of companies in the sector. Of 21 firms under EPZs, only 3
are in the textiles and apparel sector.


13. Although in numerous interviews GOT officials voiced their
concerns about the lack of value addition in Tanzania generally, and
the advent of EPZs certainly benefits the textiles and garments
sector, GOT has taken no actions aimed specifically at reviving the
failing industry. There are no specific tax incentives to promote
vertical integration or attract foreign investment, no
industry-specific training programs (in engineering or design),and
no official body or unit dedicated to guiding the growth of the
sector.

ANDRE

Share this cable

 facebook -  bluesky -