TURKMENISTAN: IRANIANS TRAVEL EN MASSE TO ASHGABAT

C O N F I D E N T I A L SECTION 01 OF 02 ASHGABAT 000370 SIPDIS STATE FOR NEA/IR; STATE FOR SCA/CEN E.O. 12958: DECL: 03/22/2019 TAGS: IR PGOV PREL TX SUBJECT: TURKMENISTAN: IRANIANS TRAVEL EN MASSE TO ASHGABAT FOR NOWRUZ Classified By: DCM Sylvia Reed Curran. Reasons 1.4 (b) and (d). ¶1. (SBU) Hundreds of Iranian tourists from the northern city of Mashhad have arrived in Ashgabat to spend part or all of the Nowruz holidays. Most made the 140-mile trip from Iran's second largest city by bus as part of one of several organized tour groups and are staying at the city's moderately-priced hotels. Despite cold and rainy weather for much of their stay, they were out shopping and enjoying what they reported as very advantageous prices for clothing and other goods as compared to Iran. Iran Watcher chatted with several families staying at the Ak Altyn Hotel in Ashgabat yesterday: One family, smiling and relaxed, and reported that it was their second time celebrating Nowruz in Turkmenistan. The family members said they particularly enjoyed the break from the bustle, traffic, and "pressures" of Iran. With the exception of two elderly women sporting headscarves, none of the women in the group were veiled. They commented that it was a relief to be free from that and other restrictions for a few days. BORDER HASSLES ¶2. (C) Sepideh, a housewife in her late thirties traveling with her husband, mother and two children, said that although the road trip from Mashhad to the Bajgyran border took only three hours, the Turkmen border authorities had given the group "a very hard time" at the border, questioning them and checking documents for more than six hours. Notwithstanding that delay (her group reached Bajgyran, 30 kilometers from Ashgabat, at 10:30 a.m. last Wednesday, but did not get to Ashgabat until five p.m.),she said that she finds Ashgabat was a "wonderful" place to celebrate the Iranian New Year. In the hotel lobby, her mother and several members of the group modeled shoes, cardigans, and other bargains they found on a shopping excursion that morning. VIEWS OF AMERICA ¶3. (C) Vahid, Sepideh's husband, a thoughtful, soft-spoken businessman in his mid-forties, said that Iranians were "excited and overjoyed" at President Obama's election in November, because in their view, the election of an African-American to the U.S. presidency was "undeniable evidence of the freedom that exists in America." Although Vahid had not yet heard President Obama's Nowruz message as they were in Ashgabat when it was broadcast, he had heard of it and said that he was hopeful that relations between the United States and Iran will improve soon. He cautioned, however, that many people in Iran, while they feel very favorable towards the United states, actually oppose a warming of relations. As they see it, he offered, a warming now would lend legitimacy to the Iranian regime, and give it more "staying power." He said that Iranians in general favor a withdrawal of U.S. troops from Iraq. Likewise, another member of the traveling party said that, "90% of Iranians love America," noting that "the other 10% don't know anything about it." ELECTION PROSPECTS ¶4. (C) Describing President Ahmadinejad as "universally disliked," XXXXXXXXXXXX said that with the announcement that former President Khatami had withdrawn his candidacy for the presidency, Iranians are now pinning their hopes on former Prime Minister Mir Hussein Musavi. When asked who he expects will prevail in the election, however, XXXXXXXXXXXX was less certain. He said, "even if Musavi wins the most votes, the government could always reverse the results." He went on to note the "great divide between the Iranian people and the Iranian government," such as on the requirement for women to wear the hijab and on many other social issues. ¶5. (C) COMMENT: The visitors we spoke with were warm and engaging. Unlike many Iranians who visit Turkmenistan, they appeared unconcerned about the presence of hotel security personnel in the vicinity and shared their views openly. As they parted company, they told Iran Watcher of their delight at meeting an American who speaks Farsi. END COMMENT. MILES