GHARDAIA: IDEOLOGICAL AND CULTURAL OASIS

C O N F I D E N T I A L SECTION 01 OF 03 ALGIERS 000003

SIPDIS

DEPARTMENT FOR NEA/MAG AND NEA/PI

E.O. 12958: DECL: 01/04/2019
TAGS: PGOV EAID PREL KDEM KPAO AG
SUBJECT: GHARDAIA: IDEOLOGICAL AND CULTURAL OASIS

REF: ALGIERS 588

Classified By: Ambassador David D. Pearce for Reasons 1.4 (b) and (d).


1. (U) SUMMARY: Proud of its independent spirit and unique
heritage, the oasis town of Ghardaia stands at the gateway to
the Sahara as a example of what a community whose traditional
structures continue to thrive can achieve when left to its
own devices. During his November 14-16 visit to the region,
the Ambassador observed the fiercely self-sufficient spirit
of a population recovering from the most devastating floods
to hit the town in the last 100 years. Local residents said
the central government relief effort was relatively swift,
and does not appear to have exacerbated the ethnic and
religious fault lines in the Ghardaia region (reftel),which
erupted in violence earlier this year. Meetings with the
energetic members of the regional parliament and with the
leader of the moderate Ibadi Islamic sect further highlighted
the fact that Ghardaia's centuries of isolation in the desert
have created a unique and strong community in Algeria's
interior. END SUMMARY.

OUT OF THE RIVERBED
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2. (U) The October 2 flash floods that struck Ghardaia were
the worst the region has seen in over a century, killing 33
and leaving nearly 2000 homeless. Lying at the heart of the
M'zab Valley, Ghardaia's residents responded to an increased
demand for housing during the 1960s by building homes on the
valley floor amidst oases that are the region's lifeblood.
After witnessing the destruction caused by flood waters as
much as nine meters, the wali (governor) began working to
implement a new urban plan that bans construction in the
flood zone and moves residents away from the valley to the
currently uninhabited hilltops. As one member of the
regional assembly (APW) put it, "We forgot what our ancestors
knew about this valley. There has always been one great
flood per century." Houses build prior to 1960 were built
well above the potential flood plain and incorporated
intricate systems of drainage and flood water diversion, thus
the area's historic sites escaped the October floods
undamaged.


3. (U) The humanitarian relief effort already follows this
new development plan with pre-fabricated housing lining the
roads into town, to soon provide accommodation for those
families still residing in tents. The wilaya's
Secretary-General (Lt. Governor equivalent) stated that the
vast majority of displaced families will occupy these
semi-permanent homes by the end of the year. President
Bouteflika visited Ghardaia on December 28 to inspect the
relief efforts.


4. (C) Despite initial criticism of the perceived slow
central government response, local residents appear pleased
with the reconstruction efforts underway and several praised
the quick response of the military in delivering critical
relief supplies in the early days following the floods. It
was clear that while funding for the relief effort came from
the central governmment, Ghardaia's closely knit society and
effective local government were largely responsible for this
rapid recovery. Local officials were proud that the recovery
effort was well underway without any foreign assistance.
When asked whether the government needed any assistance in
developing a flood warning system, our interlocutors stated
that technical aid would be welcome, but that an alert system
was already being developed using Algerian satellites.

A GHARDAIA FOR THE 21ST CENTURY
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5. (U) Whereas many regional capitals are dotted with
monolithic housing projects built by Chinese construction
companies, Ghardaia's community leaders have developed a
suburban planning model that integrates elements of the
region's uniquely Saharan architecture while providing for
modern conveniences. After viewing Ben-Isguen, one of the
M'zab Valley's hilltop towns that forms part of the UNESCO
World Heritage Site, we were taken to a new housing compound
on a neighboring hill.

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6. (U) The Tafilelt housing development, begun in 1998, was
the brainchild of Dr. Nouh Ahmed, a local surgeon. Built
with central and regional government funds, the project
provides 600 new family homes at reasonable prices. Plans are
already underway to expand the model to provide additional
housing for those left homeless by the floods. Using local
materials, and roughly following the design of the historic
towns nearby, the development incorporates local
architectural touches such as permimeter walls and ramparts,
rooftop terraces for summer living, and a color scheme that
incorporates the region's earth tones. On the interior,
however, the homes feature modern kitchens and bathrooms, and
spacious living quarters.


7. (U) Breaking with the widespread modern disconnect between
traditional architecture and modern urban planning, the
Tafilelt project replicates not only the architecture, but
also the traditional societal norms of the M'Zab Valley. The
streets are all pedestrian, there are small patches of earth
for the cultivation of fruits and vegetables, as well as a
collective goat farm. Trash collection is not handled by the
city administration, but by a system whereby the area's youth
provide the service, thereby imparting a sense of local
ownership and citizenship.


8. (U) The development has met with some international
reknown, as the project's leaders have been invited to many
conferences on promoting urban development sensitive to
traditional societies. When asked why the model not been
replicated in other parts of Algeria, our interlocutors
stated that other cities had attempted similar projects, but
failed, possibly due to the lack of the social cohesion one
finds in Ghardaia. Whereas M'zab Valley residents have clear
and proud example of their region's traditional architecture,
many cities in Algeria are dominated by French colonial
buildings for which the local residents harbor less fondness.

REGIONALISM STRUGGLING TO BREAK FREE
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9. (C) As part of our MEPI programming, post has sought to
expand our parliamentary training program to include a select
group of regional assemblies (APW). We met with the
President of the Ghardaia APW, Ahmed Boukari, and several of
its members to discuss the recent floods and float the idea
of participation in MEPI programs. Mr. Boukari explained to
us that Ghardaia's APW consists of 36 members, representing
seven political parties, who are elected by proportional
representation. The assembly meets in plenary four times per
year and is responsible for approving the wali's budget,
albeit reportedly without much debate. Most interesting was
the fact that the APW has topical committees on issues such
as education, public works, and youth and sports. We were
able to meet with the culture committee, which took seriously
its role of influencing central government projects in the
wilaya and providing policy guidance to the wali's office.


10. (C) Boukari stated that the Ghardaia assembly had never
participated in exchanges or training organized by a foreign
government. In fact, he stated that despite the degree of
devolved authority the APW has for affairs within the wilaya,
all contact with foreign representatives is strictly
controlled by the national government. He noted the example
of Ghardaia once trying to become a sister city with a city
in France, only to be told that such decisions must go
through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Nonetheless, the
APW members expressed a serious interest in participating in
our parliamentary training and visits by American
legislators, but reminded us that the Ministry of the
Interior must approve any such program.

EVEN THE ISLAM IS DIFFERENT
--------------


11. (C) Ghardaia's independent spirit is equally represented
in the sect of Islam practiced by the majority of its
residents. While the majority of Algerian Muslims are Sunni,
the M'zab Valley is home to one of the world's few Ibadi
(originally Kharijite) communities, who have remained largely
isolated in Ghardaia for several hundred years. During the

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French period, Shi'a Muslims were forcibly resettled by
colonial authorities to the Ghardaia region, a move which has
led to sectarian violence in recent years (reftel).
(Comment: A relatively swift central government response to
the October floods is unsurprising given the sensitivity of
these local ethnic and religious tensions. End comment.)


12. (U) During our meeting with Sheikh Boukermouche, the head
of the Ibadi Qur'anic school, we were struck by the openness
of the Ibadis. In presenting their curriculum, the teachers
stated that that they would like to increase the level of
English instruction in the school. They were interested in
the possibility of obtaining books through the Embassy and
inquired if there would be a way to bring English teachers
from the U.S. As the group presented the doctrine of Islam
taught at the school, they highlighted that Ibadis believe
that the Qur'an should be re-interpreted in light of modern
times. While extensive programming with a religious
institution may not be possible, we will continue to
cultivate a relationship with this moderate Islamic sect.
PEARCE