THE ROAD TO MANDALAY: CDA'S DECEMBER 3-4 VISIT

C O N F I D E N T I A L SECTION 01 OF 02 RANGOON 000930

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E.O. 12958: DECL: 12/09/2018
TAGS: PGOV PREL PHUM BM
SUBJECT: THE ROAD TO MANDALAY: CDA'S DECEMBER 3-4 VISIT

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Classified By: P/E Chief Jennifer Harhigh for Reasons 1.4 (b) & (d)

Summary
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1. (C) During a December 3-4 visit to Mandalay, the Charge,
accompanied by PAO, P/E Chief and the Embassy's Information
Resource Center Director, met with the mayor (a Brigadier
General),NLD officials, USG program alumni, and the Indian
CG. NLD officials are constantly harassed (security
personnel almost certainly listened in on our meeting). NLD
officials complained about central NLD leadership, and some
called for the new U.S. Administration to engage with the
Burmese regime. The U.S. team visited a reference library
and a well-known monastic school that receives funds through
our small grants program. CDA concluded the visit by drawing
record numbers (over 100 attendees) to the Jefferson Center
-- the former U.S. Consulate, now our satellite American
Center -- for a lively Q&A on the USG transition. End
summary.

Mayor Respects the Chain of Command
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2. (C) During a courtesy call, Mandalay Mayor Brigadier
General Phone Zaw Han said his job is challenging but he
offered little detail. He said he reports directly to the
Prime Minister (PM) (as does the Mayor of Rangoon) and
maintains back-and-forth communication with the PM on issues
affecting the city. The mayor noted he is, at the same time,
subordinate to the regional military commander (Mandalay
comes under Central Command, Brigadier General Tin Ngwe.)
(Note: We sought a call on the Commander without success
End note.) PAO and CDA explained the activities of the
Jefferson Center, and invited the Mayor and his staff to
visit the reading room and/or attend cultural activities,
which have steadily increased since the center's opening in
February 2008.


3. (C) It was clear throughout the call that the mayor --
31-years an infantry officer, 4 years a mayor -- respects his
chain of command. He offered no details on problems in
Mandalay, denied any racial issues in the city, which has
significant Chinese and Indian populations, and refused to
speculate on whether the planned 2010 elections would affect
his position. He and his wife are avid golfers; he invited
the CDA to join him for a round during a future visit.

Mandalay NLD Harassed; Unhappy with CEC Leadership; Suggest
POTUS Engagement with Regime
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4. (C) During a meeting with five NLD party officials and
members, CDA asked for an update on the current political
situation in Mandalay and solicited the party's advice on
future steps, given the regime's planned 2010 elections. The
party officials acknowledged the extreme hardships they face
conducting party business from private houses and without the
benefit of media, communications, or any reasonable way of
communicating with their constituency. Party officials told
us they are under constant surveillance. As an example, they
cited the trials of three party colleagues, during which
taped conversations of a March 2006 meeting with U.S. Embassy
officials were played in court. (Note: We were tailed from
our hotel to the meeting location, and the meeting was almost
certainly recorded, likely from an adjacent meeting room.
The NLD leaders were aware of the likelihood. End note.)


5. (C) When asked about relations between the Mandalay
branch and the NLD's Central Executive Committee (CEC),the
members said they are not satisfied with current leadership
but nonetheless obey orders. They are able to openly discuss
issues during quarterly meetings with the CEC. Mandalay NLD
leaders acknowledged difficulties with reforming the youth
wing of the party, but were unable to offer details on
efforts to attract new members.


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6. (C) Regarding the 2010 elections, the NLD officials said
they have yet to receive formal instructions from the CEC,
but they stand by their demands for the release of political
prisoners, national reconciliation, and some sort of
recognition for the parliament elected in 1990. One NLD
official suggested international initiative is needed to
break Burma's political impasse. He appealed for the U.S. to
have a dialogue with the GOB and Aung San Suu Kyi. One
leader proposed that the new U.S. President should negotiate
with senior regime leadership.

Indian CG: A Lonely Job
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7. (C) Indian Consul General for Mandalay Y.P. Singh told
CDA duty in Mandalay is quite lonely, given the lack of a
diplomatic or international community. He described the
difficulties those of Indian descent face in Burma, including
the inability to obtain national registration cards even
after years in country. He lamented that Chinese immigrants
could obtain such cards in a mere three weeks. He mentioned
several times the increasing Chinese presence in Mandalay and
the close relationship between the GOB and China. (Note:
CDA requested a meeting with the Chinese CG, who was
unavailable. End note.)

Paung Daw Oo Monastery Thriving
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8. (C) A visit to the Paung Daw Oo monastery and its
leader, U Nayaka, allowed the CDA to see one of Mandalay's
most vibrant community centers. With free schooling, health
clinic, and vocational training program, Paung Daw Oo is
crowded and a beehive of activity. Over 7,000 students
attend the monastic school in two shifts, and nearly 1500
monks and students live and work on the monastery's grounds.
The monastery's operations are supported by donations from
private benefactors and foreign governments, including the
British and German. The health clinic, part of the
privately-run SUN clinic network, receives U.S. funding
through Population Services International, and the monastery
has received Embassy small grants funds for critical thinking
and monastic-education teacher-training programs. U Nayaka,
an International Visitor Leadership Program alumnus, visited
the United States in September on a fundraising trip.

Jefferson Center Ramps up Activities
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9. (C) At the Jefferson Center, the Embassy's satellite
American Center in Mandalay, the CDA delivered remarks about
the U.S. Presidential transition and then engaged in Q&A for
90 minutes with a lively audience of over 100 library
members, students, and alumni of various U.S.-sponsored
exchange programs. The turnout was the largest for a speaker
event at the Center to date. The first half year of the
Center's existence was intentionally kept low-key, but
starting this past summer, the Center increased library
hours, added full-time staff, commenced English classes, and
has welcomed several guest speakers. We intend to continue
increasing activities at the Jefferson Center, including
possible outdoor concerts on the Center,s extensive grounds,
which are located across the street from the Mayor's office.
A bluegrass group sponsored by ECA,s Rhythm Road program
will be a test case when it visits Burma in early spring 2009.
DINGER