VIGNETTES FROM AMBASSADOR'S VISIT TO CONSERVATIVE

C O N F I D E N T I A L SECTION 01 OF 02 RIYADH 000556 SIPDIS SIPDIS DEPT PLEASE PASS TO NEA/ARP FOR SWALKER/BSHUKAN/RJACHIM E.O. 12958: DECL: 03/19/2017 TAGS: PGOV PINR PHUM PTER SA SUBJECT: VIGNETTES FROM AMBASSADOR'S VISIT TO CONSERVATIVE QASSIM Classified By: Ambassador James C. Oberwetter for reasons 1.4 (b) and ( d). ¶1. (SBU) Ambassador traveled to Qassim Province, often referred to as the heart of conservatism in Saudi Arabia, on March 6 and 7. In addition to his meeting with the Governor of Qassim Province Prince Faisal bin Bandar bin Abdulaziz (septel),Ambassador attended a dinner meeting with the Qassim Chamber of Commerce (QCC) and visited the Saudi joint-stock pharmaceutical factory Spimaco-Addwaeih. Located in Al Qassim's Industrial City, the factory comprises 150,000 square meters and produces antibiotics, oral solids and liquids, ointments, antiseptics, and biopharmaceuticals. Ambassador also traveled to Unaizah -- sometimes called the "Paris of Najd" -- where he visited the historical Al Bassam and Al Hamdan homes, and local residents re-enacted a typical "madrasas" and children's games, as well as traditional arts and crafts. Ambassador also visited the market in Al Midhnab, the Buraidah museum, and toured Uyun Al Jiwa. ¶2. (C) Throughout his visit to the Province, Ambassador was warmly and enthusiastically received by officials and the public alike. Qassimis were anxious to convey that they are friends to the U.S. and want to attract investors to the region. The official escort during the visit, Secretary General of Qassim Regional Council Hamad Al Zaidan, several times emphasized the importance of the visit, stating that, "While we do not necessarily like your policies, we like you." Although there were clear signs that Al Qassim is more conservative than other parts of the Kingdom, our interlocutors said this is slowly -- but surely -- changing. ¶3. (C) The complete absence of women in public was the most glaring indicator that conservatism is alive and well in Saudi Arabia's heartland. Women were not present on the streets, at the museum, or in the factory. (NOTE: Spimaco's Vice-President for Manufacturing and Logistics, Ahmed Abdullah Al Rebdi, indicated that their facility was constructed to accommodate female employees and there are plans to hire women. However, Spimaco does not currently have any female employees. END NOTE.) There were no women in the market or at any of the historical sites. While several women were spotted in the hotel restaurant, they were all completely covered -- even wearing the niqab (face covering). Additionally, while educational opportunities for women in the Province have expanded (septel),employment opportunities appear to remain limited to micro-enterprises under the auspices of social and charitable organizations. ¶4. (C) Following the Spimaco tour, Al Zaidan noted that none of the male employees had hesitated to shake hands with female PolOff, pointing out the significance of this for such a traditionally conservative area. (NOTE: As is often the case with Muslim men, many Saudis will place their hands over their heart to indicate that they do not wish to shake hands with a woman. During the QCC event later in the evening (septel),approximately 50 percent of the participants preferred not to shake female PolOff's hand. END NOTE.) Al Zaidan, who is from Qassim but was educated in the Eastern Province, stated that Al Qassim Province is significantly less conservative than it was 20 years ago. He identified globalization (i.e., exposure to western ideas),Internet and satellite access, and what he termed a younger and more progressive population as the reasons behind this. ¶5. (C) Al Zaidan pointed to the make-up of the Buraidah Municipal Council as an example of this progressive trend. He told the Ambassador that everyone had initially thought that because of its religious and conservative nature, the populace would elect primarily religious people to the Council. Instead, only two were elected -- the other four included two engineers and two businesspeople. Al Zaidan also suggested that although there are still strong tribal affiliations throughout the region, there is increasing "loyalty to the 'system'" in larger cities such as Buraidah. He further suggested this has resulted in more liberal thinking -- although he admitted that individuals very quickly revert back to their tribal orientation in moments of crisis. ¶6. (C) Although the Al Midhnab visit occurred just prior to the early evening prayer, the market was crowded with people clearly hoping to catch a glimpse of the Ambassador, and they RIYADH 00000556 002 OF 002 followed him from stall to stall in what could almost be described as a festive atmosphere. As the call to prayer blared over loudspeakers, the crowds continued to gather and some fathers positioned their small sons so they could see the Ambassador. Al Zaidan later expressed dismay that the mosque in Al Midhnab had broadcast the prayer over the loudspeaker, saying Prince Faisal had specifically decreed that only the call to prayer could be broadcast -- not any of the sermons or readings of the Qur'an. He suggested that limiting the audience to those who actually attend prayer -- as opposed to everyone within earshot -- would moderate the influence of the religious establishment on the community. As he dialed the authorities to report the infraction, he emphasized that the Governor strictly enforces these rules and has little tolerance for those who break them. ¶7. (C) COMMENT: Qassimis -- from the Governor on down -- made it clear that their goal is to facilitate the region's economic development and attract international investment -- including increasing business-to-business relationships with the U.S. To do this, Al Qassim region must work hard to dispel the notion -- which exists even amongst its own residents -- that its conservatism is an impediment to growth. It is certainly in the Qassimis' best interests to convey that they are welcoming, friendly, and progressive enough to attract investment. Our interlocutors repeatedly emphasized that being conservative does not mean they are extremists or support extremist ideology. While Qassim has taken steps to improve the region's reputation, it now remains to be seen whether the push for progress will trump the religious establishment or if the five opportunities the imams have each day to influence the people will prove to be too much. END COMMENT. OBERWETTER