TURKMENISTAN: LIFE AIN'T EASY IN TURKMENBASHY

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 ASHGABAT 000971 SIPDIS SENSITIVE SIPDIS STATE FOR SCA/CEN, SCA/PPD, EUR/ACE, ECA, IIP E.O. 12958: N/A TAGS: PGOV PREL KDEM KPAO SOCI TX SUBJECT: TURKMENISTAN: LIFE AIN'T EASY IN TURKMENBASHY REF: A. ASHGABAT 0970 ¶B. ASHGABAT 0966 ¶1. (U) Sensitive but unclassified. Not for public Internet. ¶2. (SBU) During a September 11 visit to the Caspian Sea port city, Turkmenbashy, Charge met at a cafe with three FLEX and one IVLP alumni. Although one of the oldest cities in Turkmenistan, founded in the mid-19th century during the Russian Empire, contemporary Turkmenbashy (pop. c. 80,000) has nothing of the picturesque charm and cosmopolitan energy associated with port cities elsewhere in the world. Instead, it's a badly run-down and neglected provincial town that seems frozen in the Soviet 1970s. ¶3. (SBU) Compared to similar meetings with U.S.-program alumni he's had elsewhere in Turkmenistan, the Charge's interlocutors were unusually, almost painfully, restrained. He asked the three FLEX alumni what they were doing. The two males were unemployed, and the female said she worked, but not happily, in her aunt's wedding-dress shop. All said they intended to apply to the University of Central Asia in Bishkek, but wouldn't be able to attend without full scholarships. TELEVISION ¶4. (SBU) When asked how they got news of the world, they replied, "by satellite dish" -- mostly Russian TV, but a bit from Turkish TV. Later while standing outside for a group photo, Charge noted every balcony of the apartment house across the courtyard had one large satellite dish, and some of them two, the second one smaller. One FLEX alumnus explained the large dishes were for Russian TV, and the smaller for European TV. But not everyone can afford the dish and subscription for European TV, and so families or groups of friends sometimes jointly get one. When asked what people watch from European TV, he replied, "sports, movies, and pay channels." To the discomfort of the others in the group, he explained that porn-for-pay is popular in Turkmenbashy. INTERNET ¶5. (SBU) The three Flex students said they don't use Internet, although it was an important part of their lives during their academic year in the United States, because the Internet cafe is too expensive and the connection too slow to justify the cost. The Turkmenbashy American Corner, that should provide Internet service, has been closed for over two years (ref B),although the Embassy continues to work to find a solution to the problem. RESULTS ¶6. (SBU) The IVLP alumnus runs his own NGO program at the orphanage for the disabled, and he tries to involve Turkmenbashy's young people to keep them occupied, since there is so little else to do in town. He lavishly praised his 2004 IVLP program on volunteerism in America, pointing out he's now completed his obligatory two years back in Turkmenistan, and sincerely hopes he'll be able to participate in another IVLP program. He said, "What I learned on my program in the United States, I've put to work here." BIG BROTHER ¶7. (SBU) All four admitted they were nervous because they were meeting with a foreigner, even though they had received ASHGABAT 00000971 002 OF 002 permission from the government to do so. They said that unapproved meetings with foreigners can lead to uncomfortable interrogation by the Ministry of National Security (ex-KGB) at best, and, if a government employee like a teacher is involved, would likely lead to loss of job. ¶5. (SBU) When asked about their goals for the future, the three FLEX alumni immediately agreed: "Get out of Turkmenbashy!" HOAGLAND