UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 YAOUNDE 001631

SIPDIS

SIPDIS

DEPT FOR AF/C
PARIS AND LONDON FOR AFRICA ACTION OFFICERS
EUCOM FOR J5-A AFRICA DIVISION AND POLAD YATES

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: CM EAGR SENV KCOR SCUL PINR
SUBJECT: CAMEROON: OFF ROAD IN THE WESTERN PROVINCES



1. (U) Pol/Econ chief made a three-day trip at the height of
the rainy season September 28-October 1 to inaugurate
Self-Help and Ambassador's Girls Scholarship projects in the
North West, South West and West provinces. This message
offers her impressions of the region.

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Initial Impressions of
western Cameroon
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2. (U) The well-paved road from Yaounde to Bafoussam in
Cameroon's West province winds its way through rolling hills
and grassy plains. For those accustomed to the dodgy road
that connects Yaounde with the commercial capital Douala, the
smooth pavement, sturdy and wide shoulder and abundance of
speed limit, road safety and directional signs, impresses one
that the absence of these elsewhere in the country reflects a
lack of will, not of ability.


3. (U) Soon after leaving the outskirts of Yaounde, one is
struck by the prevalence of churches in every village.
Throughout the western provinces massive structures, built
primarily by the Baptists, Presbyterians and Lutherans
abound, reflecting -- especially in anglophone North West and
South West provinces -- the links with the United States,
Canada and the UK. They stand in sharp contrast to the
modest, even humble, dwellings of the villagers. Markedly
less in number, but still noticeable, are the mosques and the
Islamic primary and secondary schools.

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Rare Earth
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4. (U) On balance, the soil in Cameroon's western provinces
is very fertile; in fact, most of the produce sold in Yaounde
and Douala is grown in this region. (Note: There are a few
areas, however, where the soil is poor and locals are limited
in what they can grow, mostly to beans and corn. End Note)
Roadside markets teem with bushels of fresh tomatoes, huge
heads of cabbage, potatoes, carrots, green beans, corn and
dried legumes, not to mention pineapples, plantains, bananas
and oranges. The soil itself runs the gamut from Burnt Siena

to an almost merlot red, and, in places, a deep brown
reminiscent of espresso roast coffee. The North West is also
a rice growing region and the road north of Bamenda snakes
through the grassy rice fields before climbing into the hills
of Kumbo and Ndu.


5. (U) Food shopping in the provinces is a popular pastime
for Yaounde and Douala residents, many of whom make regular
trips back to their villages. (Note: "Village," in the
Cameroonian sense of the word, refers to a region where
people speak the same local dialect. Thousands of people
might live in a "village." End Note) Not only is the produce
fresher than what appears in the Yaounde and Douala markets
days later, but it is also much less expensive. According to
the National Institute of Statistics, 30 percent of the
transportation costs to get food from the fields to the urban
markets is attributable to "fees" paid to police at
checkpoints along the way.

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Snakes, Rats, Monkeys and other
roadside treats
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6. (U) For those with more adventuresome palates, local
hunters dot the roadside offering rats, snakes, monkeys and
the more pedestrian goat for sale; at times fresh, or at
least fresh killed. Bush meat is for some a choice, but for
most, the only option. Though most (70%) of Cameroon's
poultry farming is backyard, it is not sufficiently
widespread to provide all families a source of protein, and
there are some for whom the FCFA 2000 (about USD 4) price of
a chicken is prohibitive. (Note: Raising cane rats is an
important component of the revenue generating activities of

YAOUNDE 00001631 002 OF 002


"Serve the Orphans," an Ambassador's Girls Scholarship
recipient in Ndu, NW Province. End Note)

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"Repatriating Assets"
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7. (U) Another striking feature of the western provinces is
the abundance of enormous houses -- compounds in many cases
-- built by those who have made their fortune in Yaounde or
Douala, either in business or government, legitimately or
not. A number of unfinished mansions appear to have been
started by ministers or other officials who got kicked out of
office before they could steal enough to complete
construction. Far beyond large country houses, many of these
mansions epitomize wretched excess, both in size and design.
Moreover, many are nestled among very/very modest dwellings
and a local villager confirmed the impression that this
placement is often an "in your face" message to less
successful neighbors.

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Roads: The slime is ridiculous
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8. (U) Though the roads connecting Bafoussam and Bamenda
(the West and North West provincial capitals, respectively)
are quite good (even though the roads within the cities are
pretty bad), venturing off the main road, or into remote
villages, is an adventure not for the faint of heart (or for
anyone lacking a four-wheel drive vehicle), and one that
should be avoided during the rainy season. Rural roads in
the South West and North West provinces, at times partially
paved, but mostly boasting impressive potholes, are so bad
that they are controlled with "rain gates" to restrict
vehicular traffic when it rains so as not to further degrade
the road bed. Cars, trucks and busses still get through,
however, and often with dramatic results and they slip, slide
and (sometimes) flip on muddy slopes.


9. (U) The village of Alou in the South West province is one
most Cameroonians avoid during the rainy season. The hilly
dirt road, when embraced by seasonal rains, becomes a sea of
thick, clay-like mud, with ruts of 8 to 12 inches. Sturdy,
powerful all-wheel drive vehicles have trouble, and typical
local conveyances have accidents. Bus and other passengers
repeatedly have to unload, dig out and re-board.

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Meeting the Fon
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10. (U) Alou itself is a pleasant town with a newly
constructed classroom in the elementary school. (Note: The
classroom construction was financed by Self-Help funds. End
Note) Visitors must make the obligatory call on the Fon (the
traditional ruler; called Chief or Lamido elsewhere in the
country). The Fon of Alou, only enthroned in January
following the death of his father, is a medical student
(dentistry) at the local university. Protocol dictates that
subjects must keep their heads below the Fon's and the Fon
can only be introduced to a visitor by an aide, making the
whole experience much like that of Anna Lewellyn in her first
call on the King of Siam.


11. (U) Outside the palace (a description that stretches the
limit of one's imagination) conversation with the Fon is much
more relaxed, and he eagerly showed visiting P/E Chief the
(U.S.-funded) stand pipe for fresh water, the latrine (of
which he is particularly proud), the community hall, and the
small herd of goats which provides most of the palace's
revenue. As a medical student the young Fon is eager to
introduce good sanitation and hygiene standards to his
Fondom; he is also keen to further his dental studies in the
United States.
MARQUARDT