OBSERVATIONS ON THE NORTHERN ARABIAN CITY OF TABUK

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 JEDDAH 000385 SIPDIS SIPDIS RIYADH, PLEASE PASS TO DHAHRAN; DEPARTMENT FOR NEA/ARP; PARIS FOR ZEYA; LONDON FOR TSOU E.O. 12958: N/A TAGS: KISL PREL SA SCUL SUBJECT: OBSERVATIONS ON THE NORTHERN ARABIAN CITY OF TABUK REF: A. JEDDAH 379 ¶B. JEDDAH 384 ¶1. SUMMARY: During a visit to Tabuk on May 16, the CG and Pol/Econ Chief were able to meet with the Governor and leading members of the Tabuk Chamber of Commerce and Industry (reftels). The trip included a tour of the city of Tabuk which provided a chance to form some general impressions. Tabuk is a growing community. It is the center of a major agricultural area, and is experiencing rapid industrial expansion. The region also hosts a very substantial military presence. A community with a very long history, very little of the historic parts of the settlement still exist. Tabuk is a socially conservative area. While in Tabuk, the Consulate group did not see a single woman. END SUMMARY. TABUK GOVERNATE ¶2. Tabuk is the capital and largest city in the northwestern-most province of Saudi Arabia. The province has an area of 104,000 square kilometers. It is bordered on the north by Jordan. Its western border is the Red Sea. The province has more than 700 km of coastline, extending from the Jordanian border in the Gulf of Aqaba, south to a point just north of the major industrial city of Yanbu. Both Israel and Egypt are neighbors across the narrow Gulf of Aqaba. To the south is the province of Medina, which contains not only the industrial center of Yanbu, but the religious city of Medina. Its eastern borders are the provinces of Hail and Jouf. HISTORY OF TABUK ¶3. The region was important in ancient times. Major civilizations have existed there since at least 1500 B.C. It is commonly believed that Tabuk was the land of Madyan and Dadan mentioned in the Bible. During the Roman era, Tabuk constituted much of the ancient Nabatean state, popularly identified with Petra in Jordan. There are numerous archaeological sites in the region, including: Al Bidaa, Al Khuraibah, Rawwafa, Al Muwailih, Al Muzim and Taima. Numerous ancient inscriptions and pictographs have been found on rock outcroppings throughout the area. ¶4. In modern history, before the founding of the Saudi state, Tabuk was an important outpost of the Ottoman Empire. The Red Sea and the narrow coastal plain were important routes for pilgrims and traders. Ottoman forts and watchtowers are common along the trade routes and ports on the coast. The Hejaz Railway, designed to cement Ottoman control over the Muslim Holy Cities passed through the middle of the province. A major station and repair facility were built in Tabuk. Destruction of this railway, disrupting Turkish control of western Arabia, was a major achievement of the Arab Revolt during the First World War. THE MILITARY IN TABUK ¶5. Tabuk houses the Northwest Area Command at King Abdul Aziz Military City. It is the headquarters of the Royal Saudi Land Forces (RSLF) 7th Armored, 8th Infantry, 12th Armored, and 14th Infantry Brigades. Tabuk also is home to the RSLF Airborne School and Brigade, the RSLF Armor Institute, and King Faisal Air Base with the 2nd Squadron, flying F-15 aircraft. A substantial portion of the regional economy is directed towards providing support and services to the military. ECONOMY OF TABUK ¶6. A major source of agricultural produce since ancient times, Tabuk remains the breadbasket of Saudi Arabia, growing over 180,000 tons of wheat each year. Other important crops include grapes, alfalfa, and fruit. Recently, greenhouses have been constructed and the area grows and exports large numbers of cut flowers. Additional economic information is provided in reftel B. SIGHTS AROUND TABUK ¶7. During the flight into Tabuk and the drive from the airport to the city center, it was possible to see the substantial agricultural development in the valley containing JEDDAH 00000385 002 OF 002 the city. Numerous large irrigated fields were visible. Most of the irrigation seen employed center-pivot irrigation systems. Tabuk itself is a sprawling, new development consisting of cement brick structures, little different than those found in other modern Arabian cities. The streets were lined with many small shops and businesses. ¶8. It was evident that rapid growth is continuing. In several places, one or two new buildings were surrounded by large tracts of undeveloped land. In one notable instance, about a quarter of a mile off one of the major traffic arteries, a large, new Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant sat in the middle of a network of empty streets, at least 500 yards from any other structure. The long-serving governor (reftel A) has overseen substantial "official" development. Not only did he sponsor a convention center and recreation center, but an impressively large Municipal Palace where he met the CG and Pol/Econ Chief. The CG commented that the streets were noticeably cleaner than those she had seen in the other cities she had visited in the Consular District. OLD TABUK ¶9. Although Tabuk has been settled for at least 3,000 years, little associated with the historic settlement exists. It is true that Tabuk was never a very large community. The British traveler H. St. John B. Philby during a visit in the early 1950s noted only the Ottoman fort and wells surrounded by a few streets of mud-brick hovels and the railway station. The facades of the station buildings in the center of the city have been restored, but are fenced off and forsaken in unkempt grounds. A few hundred yards away are the wells and castle complex observed by Philby. The fort, or castle, remains unrestored and locked. The surrounding streets have been replaced by non-descript modern buildings, with the exception of a few partially demolished walls of old buildings immediately adjacent to the castle grounds. ¶10. The historic wells, which justified Tabuk's existence throughout the millennia, were choked with sand and debris to within a few feet of the top of the stone-lined shaft. One of the guides reverently showed the CG the spot where the Prophet Muhammed reputedly drank from the well. Now, the revered spot was littered with cigarette butts, crushed soft-drink cans and the detritus one associates with places where bored young men congregate on week-end evenings. In view of the fact that Saudi Arabia's Wahabi doctrine rigidly opposes venerating places associated even with the Prophet lest one fall into idolatry, one briefly wondered if the deplorable state of this historic spot was simply indifference to the past or perhaps an impudent way some Saudi youths employed to demonstrate their adherence to Wahabi principles. The palm trees of the "oasis" were fenced off and also used as a dump for trash. Indeed, it was noted that the monuments of old Tabuk were the dirtiest parts of the other-wise well kept city. Even the famous mosque where the Prophet is said to have prayed after victory at the battle of Tabuk appeared rather forlorn. NO WOMEN IN SIGHT ¶11. Tabuk is described as a very conservative Muslim community. This was apparent during the drive from the airport and meetings and tour of the city, when not a single women was seen on the streets, in the hotel, or employed in the government offices. The few men passed on the streets during the afternoon tour glanced at the passing motorcade with looks of surprise and curiosity. Gfoeller