Identifier
Created
Classification
Origin
09GUATEMALA227
2009-03-11 16:36:00
UNCLASSIFIED
Embassy Guatemala
Cable title:  

GUATMELA'S GARIFUNA FACE CHALLENGES TO CULTURE

Tags:  PREL ECON PHUM KPAO GT 
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R 111636Z MAR 09
FM AMEMBASSY GUATEMALA
TO SECSTATE WASHDC 7095
INFO WHA CENTRAL AMERICAN COLLECTIVE
AMCONSUL BARCELONA
UNCLAS GUATEMALA 000227 


STATE FOR WHA/CEN (RVALERIN),WHA/PDA (MLEE)

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: PREL ECON PHUM KPAO GT
SUBJECT: GUATMELA'S GARIFUNA FACE CHALLENGES TO CULTURE
AND IDENTITY

UNCLAS GUATEMALA 000227


STATE FOR WHA/CEN (RVALERIN),WHA/PDA (MLEE)

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: PREL ECON PHUM KPAO GT
SUBJECT: GUATMELA'S GARIFUNA FACE CHALLENGES TO CULTURE
AND IDENTITY


1. SUMMARY. From February 18-20, CAO traveled to
Livingston and Puerto Barrios on Guatemala's Caribbean
coast in an effort to improve the Embassy's cultural and
educational links with the Afro-Caribbean Garifuna
community. Livingston, which can only be reached by
boat, is an isolated community with an economy based
almost entirely on fishing, tourism, and remittances.
Although Guatemala's Garifuna face serious challenges, in
particular a lack of political leadership, endemic
racism, and migration, they have a strong desire to
preserve their culture and community. Embassy Guatemala
PAS will continue to engage the Garifuna through English
language teaching and cultural and educational exchanges.
END COMMENT.


2. From February 18-20, CAO traveled to Livingston and
Puerto Barrios on Guatemala's small Caribbean coast for a
series of cultural activities and school visits aimed at
increasing cultural and educational contacts with the
Garifuna (estimated pop. 7,000),an Afro-Caribbean ethnic
group found throughout the Central American Caribbean.
CAO was accompanied on his visit a U.S. Fulbright student
who will be working in Livingston in the second half of

2009.


3. Livingston (pop. 24,000) is located at the mouth of
the Rio Dulce River in the department of Izabal. No
roads connect to Livingston and locals and visitors alike
must travel there by boat from Rio Dulce or from Puerto
Barrios, the departmental seat. Livingston's isolation
has helped preserve the Garifuna culture, which dates
back at least 200 years, but also results in a lack of
employment and educational opportunities. The economy is
dependent on fishing, tourism, and remittances, and
migration (primarily to the United States) is high.
Although Livingston is the heart of Garifuna culture in
Guatemala, the Garifuna only make up a small minority of
the population, which is dominated by Kekchi Maya and
Ladino (mestizo) Guatemalans. In addition to other small
ethnic groups, there is a relatively large community of
expatriates, including approximately 70 U.S. citizens.


4. CAO visited with 25 representatives of the Garifuna
spiritual community at the Villa Caribe hotel, one of
approximately 20 hotels in Livingston that caters to a
growing number of visitors (a mix of independent

travelers, package tourists, and passengers arriving from
the new cruise ship terminal near Puerto Barrios).
Garifuna culture is a highly spiritual mix of Catholic
and traditional beliefs. There are a number of very
basic temples scattered throughout Livingston and the
ceremonies are conducted in Garifuna, an Arawak-based
language with a variety of Caribbean, European, and
African influences.


5. The participants told CAO that Guatemala's Garifuna
community faced endemic racism, particularly outside of
Livingston and Puerto Barrios. The Garifuna stated that
they found it insulting that African was not an ethnicity
listed on the national census. On the streets in
Guatemala City and elsewhere they are often on the
receiving end of insults about their skin color. (NOTE:
Approximately 10 years ago several Garifuna students on
scholarship in Quetzaltenango were nearly lynched by an
angry crowd. END NOTE.) They complained that the
Guatemalan government pays little attention to Livingston
except during campaign season, and that when officials do
come they often make promises that they have no intention
of fulfilling. Several Garifuna lamented the fact that
due in part to an extremely fractured and disorganized
Qdue in part to an extremely fractured and disorganized
political culture they don't even have much of a say in
local politics (the mayor and vice-mayor are both Kekchi
and one Garifuna reported that there has never been an
elected Garifuna mayor). Racial divisions in Livingston
are immediately obvious; neighborhoods of the city are
essentially segregated into black and Ladino/Kekchi
areas.


6. The community leaders also talked about the economic
situation in Livingston. Costs of basic foods and
supplies are high due to the fact that they must be
transported by boat. Although a road is reportedly
creeping closer to Livingston, virtually all of the
Garifuna were against it as it would further dilute the
Garifuna culture. Young people have few employment
opportunities, while at the same time their lifestyles
are supported through remittances from the United States.
Several Garifuna noted that the U.S. recession was
negatively affecting remittances, putting further stress
on young Garifuna who have few options but to leave
Livingston.


7. The next day CAO met with Luba Awanselula, a
community group dedicated to the preservation of Garifuna
culture, with a particular emphasis on food and the arts.
CAO spoke to the group about educational and cultural
opportunities supported by the Embassy. There is a large
number of Garifuna cultural institutions in Livingston
and it soon became apparent that they compete with each
other for the limited attention of the Guatemalan
government, domestic and international NGO's, and
tourists. Garifuna culture is mostly intangible, but
there is an excellent small community museum near the
dock that tells the story of the Garifuna and the multi-
ethnic makeup of Livingston.


8. The fractured nature of Garifuna organizations makes
it difficult to determine who, if anyone, represents the
larger community. One particularly outspoken Garifuna
who represented himself as a spiritual leader turned out
to be a scam artist who brazenly asked the CAO for money.
As several Garifuna acknowledge, the lack of a singular
identity and clear leaders makes it hard for government
and non-governmental organizations to find reliable
partners for assistance and development programs,
although UNESCO is currently planning a program there.


9. There are three public schools in Livingston - one
primary school each for boys and girls and a combined
secondary school with approximately 300 students. CAO
visited with half of the secondary school students to
talk about Black History Month in the United States and
to encourage the students to study English. The school,
which is run primarily by Garifuna, has one self-taught
English teacher. Many students drop out of school at a
young age and loiter in the streets (alcoholism, youth
pregnancy, and STDs are significant problems in
Livingston). Like many rural schools, facilities are
limited and the emphasis is on basic skills. Graduates
of secondary school have no options for further study
unless they leave Livingston, and any young Garifuna with
university degrees who return have few employment
options.


10. Overall the Garifuna in Livingston were very pro-
United States, referring to President Obama as "our
president" because of his African origins. Many Garifuna
were very interested in possible changes in U.S.
immigration policy, reflecting the general desire towards
migration.


11. Returning from Livingston, CAO stopped in Puerto
Barrios (pop. 41,000) to visit a women's organization and
a private school. Although Puerto Barrios, formerly the
main port in Guatemala for the United Fruit Company, is
considered to be a seedy port town that has seen better
days, CAO was impressed by the enthusiasm and optimism of
the civic and educational leaders. CAO spoke with
students from two private schools and the students asked
an impressive number of questions about U.S. foreign
policy and opportunities to study and travel in the
United States.


12. COMMENT. The Garifuna are a small but vibrant
minority group that is closer in many ways to the United
States than to the Guatemalan government. Still, because
of its isolation and lack of central identity,
establishing stronger links to the Garifuna and
encouraging greater Garifuna participation in Embassy-
sponsored programs will take concerted effort. Building
on this visit, Embassy Guatemala PAS plans to: (1) work
with English language teachers in Puerto Barrios and
Livingston, including by ensuring that they participate
in English language teaching conferences and by
Qin English language teaching conferences and by
requesting an English language specialist for the region;
(2) continue to work to identify future Garifuna leaders
and include them in exchange programs or English-language
study opportunities; and (3) plan follow-up visits taking
advantage of new contacts and the presence of a visiting
U.S. Fulbright student. END COMMENT.

MCFARLAND