TIBETAN MONKS DEFIANT AT LABRANG MONASTERY,

S E C R E T SECTION 01 OF 03 BEIJING 004092

SIPDIS

E.O. 12958: DECL: 10/29/2033
TAGS: PHUM PGOV PREL KIFR CH
SUBJECT: TIBETAN MONKS DEFIANT AT LABRANG MONASTERY,
"PLEASE LEAVE" IS NEW TOURISM SLOGAN IN XIAHE, GANSU

REF: A. BEIJING 3966

B. BEIJING 2682

C. BEIJING 2679

D. BEIJING 1513

Classified By: Political Minister Counselor
Aubrey Carlson. Reasons 1.4 (b) and (d).

SUMMARY
--------------


1. (C) Ethnic Tibetans in Xiahe (Sangchu),Gansu Province,
told EmbOffs September 25 that authorities there continue to
be on "high alert" against renewed unrest. Though, unlike in
March, Xiahe is now readily accessible by car, foreigners are
still not allowed to stay overnight. Han Chinese tourists
were barred from Xiahe during the Olympics for fear they
might become targets of violence, according to one source.
Two Tibetans explained that officials are limiting the number
of times locals can pray at the Labrang Monastery, which is
fueling resentment. Soon after arriving in Xiahe, a Public
Security Bureau (PSB) officer ordered EmbOffs to leave town,
though he did permit a quick tour of Labrang. The policeman,
an ethnic Tibetan and former monk, provided EmbOffs a window
into tensions within Xiahe's Tibetan community. Many
Tibetans clearly ostracize the policeman because of his PSB
affiliation, though he took pains to downplay his authority
and portray himself as a "little guy" who is "just doing his
job." Originally intent on escorting EmbOffs on the tour of
Labrang, EmbOffs' PSB minder was forced to wait outside when
monks strenuously objected to his presence inside the
monastery. End Summary.

"UNOFFICIAL" TRAVEL TO TIBETAN AREAS
--------------


2. (C) This cable provides expanded detail to ref A report on
EmbOffs' unofficial visit to various Tibetan areas in Qinghai
and Gansu Provinces September 21-26. Specifically, this
report covers the September 25 visit to Xiahe (Sangchu) in
Gansu Province and the nearby Labrang Monastery. Since the
outbreak of widespread unrest in Tibetan regions of China in
March, Xiahe and Labrang have been the site of several
large-scale demonstrations and the arrest of an unknown
number of monks and lay Tibetans.

XIAHE NOT QUITE OPEN TO FOREIGNERS
--------------


3. (C) Prior to arrival in Xiahe, EmbOffs received
conflicting reports on whether the town had reopened to
foreigners. One taxi driver in the neighboring Tibetan city
of Hezuo refused to take EmbOffs on the grounds that Xiahe
remained "closed." A second driver, however, was willing to
make the trip and claimed that he had recently taken other
foreigners to the town. Upon leaving Hezuo, EmbOffs' driver
stopped at a PSB checkpoint to apply for a permit to make the
drive. The PSB officer recorded EmbOffs passport information
but made no indication that foreigners were forbidden from
traveling to Xiahe. (Note: This was in contrast to March
(ref D),when the Gansu Public Security Bureau established
roadblocks on major highways to prevent foreigners,
especially journalists, from reaching Xiahe.) Bus companies,
however, apparently are still under orders not to sell
foreigners bus tickets. A British tourist EmbOffs
encountered September 26 in Tongren (Rebgong),Qinghai
Province, reported that days earlier he was refused a ticket
to Xiahe at a bus station in Lanzhou, Gansu's capital.

XIAHE SECURITY HIGH, BUT FEWER TROOPS THAN IN JULY
-------------- --------------


4. (C) At the entrance to Xiahe, EmbOffs passed a People's
Armed Police (PAP) checkpoint manned by PAP troops armed with
assault rifles and standing behind sandbag barriers. (Note:
EmbOffs saw similar PAP checkpoints in other Tibetan towns in
Gansu the week of September 22.) Inside Xiahe, EmbOffs
occasionally saw PAP soldiers walking in twos or threes.
This was in contrast to July 2008, when PolOffs saw 40-troop
PAP columns regularly marching along Xiahe's main
thoroughfare (ref C). Despite the reduced show of force by
security forces, EmbOffs were spotted and reported to the
local PSB within minutes of arrival (see below),likely
indicating that plain-clothes security personnel were
patrolling the streets. Several locals said authorities
continue to be "concerned" about potential unrest. According
to Cairang (protect),a Xiahe taxi driver, during the August
8-24 Olympic Games, Han Chinese tourists were barred from
Xiahe for fear they would become targets of violence by
Tibetans.


BEIJING 00004092 002 OF 003


RESTRICTIONS ON MONASTERY VISITS ANGER TIBETANS
-------------- --


5. (S) Soon after arriving in Xiahe, EmbOffs spoke with
restaurant owner Namgal Dolma (strictly protect). Namgal,
whose establishment caters both to foreign tourists and local
Tibetans, said her business has been "devastated" by the
March unrest and subsequent crackdown. She claimed EmbOffs
were her first foreign customers since March. Other tourist
restaurants in Xiahe simply closed down, she said. Namgal
asserted that Xiahe continues to experience protests and that
she personally participated in several demonstrations. She
cited continuing restrictions on Tibetans' access to Labrang
Monastery as fueling their anger. Authorities keep a
register of local visitors to Labrang, she claimed, and do
not allow Tibetans to pray at the monastery daily. Police do
not allow Tibetans to gather at Labrang for festivals.
Namgal reported that "many" Tibetans in Xiahe have been
arrested since March, with police frequently beating
detainees. Later, EmbOffs spoke briefly with a Tibetan named
Shamba (strictly protect) who works at a tourist guesthouse
in Xiahe. "I hate the government," he said, "but my whole
family is here, so I stay." Like Namgal, Shamba described
restrictions and ID checks for Tibetans wishing to pray at
Labrang.

JINBA: THE CONFLICTED TIBETAN COP
--------------


6. (S) Approximately 40 minutes after arriving in Xiahe,
EmbOffs were approached at their table in Namgal's restaurant
by Jinba (protect),an officer with the Xiahe Public Security
Bureau's (PSB) foreign affairs division. Jinba, an ethnic
Tibetan in his early forties who speaks fluent English,
apologetically told EmbOffs that they had to leave Xiahe.
Jinba then took EmbOffs' passports to be photocopied at the
nearby PSB station. Once Jinba left the restaurant, Namgal
re-approached EmbOffs and explained that Jinba "is Tibetan
but he works for the police." "His job," she added with
obvious contempt, "is to keep foreigners out."


7. (C) After returning, Jinba once again told EmbOffs they
had to leave and offered to arrange a car to take them to
Tongren (Rebgong),Qinghai Province (a three-hour drive to
the northwest). EmbOffs requested first to be allowed a
brief tour of Labrang Monastery. After consulting with his
superiors by phone, Jinba agreed on condition that he escort
EmbOffs at all times. During the walk to Labrang, Jinba
again apologized, saying he was "just doing his job" and that
he was a "little guy." The ban on foreigners is a policy of
higher officials, he said, making clear his personal
disagreement. With EmbOffs still in tow, Jinba spotted an
Italian tourist taking photos along the town's main road. "I
thought I told you to leave yesterday," Jinba scolded the
tourist, saying, "I'm really disappointed with you." (Note:
The Italian, a wheelchair-bound paraplegic on a solo driving
tour across Europe and Asia, told EmbOffs he had ignored
Jinba's orders to leave and had spent the previous night
sleeping in his vehicle.)


8. (C) Though reluctant to talk about recent demonstrations,
Jinba willingly discussed his personal story. A native of
Xiahe, Jinba described himself as a devout Buddhist who, in
his youth, spent two years as a novice monk in Labrang.
Jinba claimed that he traveled to India and, like many
Tibetan refugees, met the Dalai Lama. Later, Jinba worked as
a tour guide for China International Travel Service (CITS)
before taking an exam six years ago to join the PSB. In
explaining his journey from monk to police officer, Jinba
implied that he entered law enforcement mainly for the
paycheck. Jinba also discussed Labrang's history and said he
was eager for the chance to show two American diplomats one
of Tibetan Buddhism's great monasteries.

"HE'S NOT COMING IN HERE"
--------------


9. (C) At Labrang, EmbOffs purchased entrance tickets and
prepared to join a tour with a group of five Chinese
tourists. Just as the tour began, however, two monks began
arguing with Jinba in Tibetan. Somewhat embarrassed, Jinba
explained to EmbOffs that "the monks don't like me because I
am a policeman and they won't let me in." EmbOffs thus could
not see the monastery and would need to refund their tickets,
Jinba said. As EmbOffs were preparing to leave, an
English-speaking monk offered to take EmbOffs on a tour and
reluctantly agreed to Jinba's demand that Jinba act as an
escort. After entering the monastery, however, Jinba and
EmbOffs' new tour guide continued to quarrel heatedly. Jinba
eventually relented and told EmbOffs he would wait at
Labrang's entrance while EmbOffs participated in the tour.

BEIJING 00004092 003 OF 003


As Jinba walked away, the monk explained that Jinba is
"unwelcome" at Labrang and that Jinba's demand to escort
tourists was "unacceptable." The monk said he recently led a
tour for a group of Swedish tourists without interference
from the PSB. Visibly angry, the monk took a moment to
regain his composure before continuing the tour.


10. (C) During the tour, the monk (who appeared to be in his
early twenties) alluded to recent unrest and made clear that
he could not speak freely with EmbOffs. (Note: The security
presence at Labrang was noticeable though not overwhelming.
About six PSB and PAP vehicles were parked outside the
monastery's main entrance. Inside Labrang, EmbOffs observed
several uniformed People's Liberation Army officers
apparently touring the monastery.) In two of Labrang's
temples, EmbOffs observed large photos of Gyaincain Norbu,
the boy designated by the Chinese Government as the 11th
Panchen Lama but who is rejected by the majority of Tibetan
Buddhists. In one location, equal-sized photos of the 9th,
10th, and "11th" Panchens were placed side by side. Our tour
guide half-heartedly gestured to the photo of Gyaincain Norbu
and identified him as the "11th Panchen Lama."


11. (C) Following the tour, Jinba collected EmbOffs at the
entrance. Unusual for a PSB official in China, he provided
EmbOffs with his cellular phone number and personal e-mail
address and stressed that EmbOffs are welcome to return to
Xiahe when the situation has "stabilized." Having bid Jinba
farewell, EmbOffs departed as agreed for Tongren.

COMMENT
--------------


12. (C) There appears to be a concerted campaign underway at
Labrang, probably implemented by the local Religious Affairs
Bureau, to promote Gyaincain Norbu as the "true" Panchen
Lama. During a July visit to Labrang (refs B and C),a monk
invited PolOff into his private quarters and then insisted on
showing PolOff a Government-published photo album of the
official Panchen. This encounter seemed like a contrived
attempt to convince a foreigner of the Labrang monks'
devotion to Gyaincain Norbu. Of nine monasteries visited in
Qinghai and Gansu between February and September, Labrang is
the only one where PolOff has seen photos of the
Government-recognized Panchen.
PICCUTA