A DAY AT THE (CAMEL) RACES

UNCLAS E F T O SECTION 01 OF 02 MUSCAT 000164

SIPDIS

SENSITIVE/NOFORN

DEPT FOR NEA/ARPI (TROBERTS),G/TIP, DRL/IL (JDEMARIA),
STATE PASS USTR (JBUNTIN, WCLATANOFF)

E.O. 12958: DECL: 01/31/2015
TAGS: PHUM SCUL PGOV ELAB MU
SUBJECT: A DAY AT THE (CAMEL) RACES

Classified By: Ambassador Richard L. Baltimore III.
Reason: 1.4 (d).

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SUMMARY
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1. (SBU/NF) In contrast to the high-stakes commercial camel
racing popular elsewhere in the Gulf, camel racing in Oman is
a decidedly more humble, traditional event primarily
practiced by rural Bedouin tribes. PolOff recently attended
a typical race in Oman's dusty Sharqiyah region, observing
how local villagers and officials organized their modest
event, and tracking the action up close from a speeding jeep.
The races, which are usually not widely advertised and can
be difficult to locate, were manifestly part of the cultural
heritage of the Bedouin people. The jockeys observed were
primarily children from the local Bedouin families who breed
and race their own mounts. End Summary.


2. (SBU/NF) Oman differentiates itself from the
commercialism of camel racing in nearby countries by focusing
on the Bedouin heritage of the activity. According to one
Omani official, camel racing should be viewed as a part of
Oman's heritage, culture and religion. From ancient times,
he said, the culture demanded that all men should learn to do
three things in life: ride a camel, swim, and shoot. PolOff
recently witnessed a typical Omani camel race in the
official's home village to compare his depiction of the
situation with reality.

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CAMEL RACING FIRST HAND
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3. (SBU/NF) Observing a camel race in Oman is no easy task.
Races usually occur during holidays and local festivals, with
prior publication of the race date (if any) only a week or
two in advance of the event. A small newspaper article will
usually list the town and approximate date the race is
scheduled to occur. To outsiders, it may prove difficult to
actually locate a racetrack once he or she finds the town.
The courses are usually well off the beaten path and not
easily discovered without a guide. PolOff was escorted to
the races by a friend native to the venue's region. The
relative informality of the races was noteworthy. Unlike
equestrian venues in America, there was no simultaneous
telecast on large screen TV's around an organized, fenced-in,
and well-identified racetrack. The traditional "courses" in
Oman consist of some bar fencing or sand bags on either side
of the racing lanes (about 12 meters across),and are
anywhere from 2 - 6 kilometers in length. The racetracks are
difficult to distinguish from the surrounding desert save for
a few grandstands at the more organized races during the Eid
holidays.


4. (SBU/NF) While race times are not published, PolOff was
taken to the course at around 7:30 am to ensure that none of
the action was missed. Races usually start early in the
morning, with several heats, and tend to last no more than an
hour. Dignitaries and VIP's crowd around the seating circle
at the finish line, while many other spectators are jammed
into their 4WD vehicles to race along the track (a traffic
danger in itself) with the camels.

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KID JOCKEYS, YOUNG AND LOCAL
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5. (SBU/NF) Camels in Oman are primarily bred by the local
Bedouin population and raced by their own children, mostly
boys but also a few girls. According to contacts at two
different ministries, the government has suggested (but not
mandated) that riders be aged between 12-15 years old.
However, of the jockeys PolOff observed, on average, most
riders appeared to be between the ages of 3-5 years old.
With helmets, cane and full riding gear, the children were
secured into the seat of the camel. (Note: PolOff's escort
said that he had heard of "fewer than 3 cases in 10 years" of
children being injured after falling from their perch. End
note.) A few riders had transistor radios tied to their
waists so that instructions could be heard from their
counterparts riding alongside. The racing heats PolOff
observed were quick and relatively uneventful, usually with
one camel far outpacing the rest. Before preparing for her
next heat, one little girl, Zahra (appeared aged 3),
inquisitively sat next to PolOff with her uncle as she
placidly awaited her turn to get back on her camel.


6. (SBU/NF) Money, wealth, and fame -- awards often
associated with commercial camel racing in neighboring
countries -- are not the norm in Oman. On the day Zahra
raced, no prizes were handed out. It was a local race in a
small village with Bedouin who had come to town from nearby
desert camps. Lacking government funding, these races
require local committees to take charge of organization and
raising funds to offer prizes during festival periods. While
for the most part the Bedouin breed and race camels locally,
they occasionally succeed in selling some animals to wealthy
shaykhs. In such instances, the Bedouin family often
receives a percentage of the camel's future prize money.
Betting is strictly forbidden in Oman and no wagering of any
kind was apparent in this local race.

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COMMENT
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7. (SBU/NF) While the children are young for their
apprenticeship, they appear healthy and well cared for.
PolOff observed no instances of children crying for their
parents or being forced to get on their camel. Omani
officials claim there have been no abuses that would
necessitate government regulation of what is a traditional
expression of Omani heritage and culture practiced by local
Bedouins and their families. At these races, PolOff observed
nothing that would contradict that assertion.
BALTIMORE